Glendalough

What is Glendalough about? 

            The word “glendalough” comes from the Gaelic for “between two lakes.” The monastic city of Glendalough was founded by Saint Kevin in the 6^th century AD. He wished to live an ascetic life, but a lot of people like what he said and started following him; therefore, he built the city for them as a place of refuge.

            1. Who? When? 

                        > People to Remember:

                                    - Saint Kevin: founder

                        > Dates to Remember:

                                    - 6^th century AD: Birth of Saint Kevin

                                    - 10^th – 12^th century AD: churches built in Glendalough

                                    - June 3, 620: Death of Saint Kevin

                     

            2. What did it look like? Why was it important? 

                        - Celtic monasticism differed from Roman monasticism in that Roman monasticism had a strong hierarchical structure. Celtic monasticism focused more on the community and the whole person, having three people at the head instead of one like Roman monks.

                        - The gateway at Glendalough is the only monastic gateway still standing. It is constructed solely of granite without the use of mortar. Gravity and the keystone keep the arch of the gateway in place. Carved into the stone just inside the gateway to the right is a cross, which signified religious and legal sanctuary for anyone who came in. Therefore, the laws of the outside world had no power inside the walls of Glendalough.

                        - The Round Tower at Glendalough is one of the straightest still standing. It is also one of the tallest, standing over 30 meters. It had six floors constructed of wood and connected by ladders. When Viking invaders attacked, they burned the towers; time rotted away whatever wood was left. Each floor has a window for a lookout, and the top floor has four windows: one for each cardinal direction. It began as a bell tower to keep time for the whole city, but the bell was most likely stolen and melted down for the metal. Because of its height, people could see the Round Tower from a great distance. It was a landmark for visitors and those seeking refuge. It was occasionally used as a storehouse and place of refuge when Glendalough was under seige. We all wanted to climb to the top of the Round Tower, but that would extremely difficult because the wooden floors all either burned or rotted away.

            - The original Cathedral at Glendalough received several additions from the 10^th to early 13^th centuries. The additions grew more elaborate with time. A few meters south of the Cathedral’s front entrance is Saint Kevin’s Cross.

            - Over time, Saint Kevin’s Church has earned the affectionate nickname “Saint Kevin’s Kitchen” because the bell tower looks like a chimney. It is also the only building in Glendalough with a stone roof. We had the privilege of going inside the church and singing “Sanctuary” and the first verse of “Amazing Grace.”

            - Most of the buildings still standing date from the 10^th through 12^th centuries because they were constructed in large part or in whole of stone, which withstands fire better than wood.

            3. Where is it? 

                        - County Wicklow, Ireland

How does Glendalough relate to Ireland's past? 

            Glendalough is one of the most significant examples of communal Christian life, centering on holistic living. People who resided there could hold one of eleven roles, from tenant all the way up to bishop.

            Glendalough remains one of the four most important monastic sites in Ireland. It holds such spiritual significance that seven pilgrimages to Glendalough are the equivalent of making one pilgrimage to Rome.  

How does Glendalough relate to Ireland today? 

            Glendalough was one of many monastic cities in Ireland that greatly aided the preservation of both sacred and secular texts during Ireland’s Golden Age, which coincided with Europe’s Dark Age.

            Today, Glendalough remains an important center of spirituality. It reminds its visitors of the holistic lifestyle lived by Saint Kevin and his followers. People still come to Glendalough to visit the Round Tower and Saint Kevin’s Kitchen, continuing to learn from the example set by the early Irish Christians who lived there.

What did our group think about Glendalough? 

            We had the privilege of being on the last tour at Glendalough. Our tour guide, Kevin took us into Saint Kevin’s Church, an option that was not available to most guests. Before leaving, we sang “Sanctuary” and the first verse of “Amazing Grace.” Compared to the size of modern churches, Saint Kevin’s Church was surprisingly small.

            Our visit to Glendalough changed our perceptions of monasteries. The people who lived at Glendalough and other monastic cities lived in community with one another. Men, women, and children lived in the same community, as opposed to a group of monks or nuns living in seclusion in a fancy-looking building.

            Historical significance aside, Glendalough remains a place of great beauty. We believe people would travel to Glendalough today whether or not the monastery was there solely for its sheer physical beauty. The serenity of the surrounding hills provided a breathtaking landscape for us to explore. We can only imagine what Saint Kevin must have felt when he initially came to this isolated, uninhabited area of the country. Ironically, his plan did not work because people followed him anyway.

            Glendalough is much bigger than the Catholic-Protestant conflict that has spanned Irish history. It serves as a common ground for all Irish Christians.

“O Lord, our Lord, how majestic is your name in all the earth! You have set your glory above the heavens.” ~ Psalm 8:1

(The whole of the monastic city. From left: Saint Kevin's Kitchen, the Cathedral, the Round Tower)

(The Gateway to Glendalough) 

(Interior of the Cathedral) 

(The Round Tower) 

(Ethan took this picture of the churchyard behind Saint Kevin's Church. It captures some of Glendalough's spiritual and physical beauty.)  

(Ethan took this picture on the hike through the hills surrounding Glendalough. We all loved it and thought it really showed the magnificence of God's creation.)